Aboard AmaPrima on the Rhine, Main & Moselle
They say the Danube gets the headlines and the Rhine gets the crowds, but after a week sailing with AmaWaterways aboard the lovely AmaPrima, we’re convinced the real treasure flows a little more quietly through the heart of Germany. Welcome to their Europe’s Rivers and Castles cruise on the Main and Moselle rivers: fairy tale castles, vineyard-clad valleys, half-timbered towns, and chocolate-box villages that time forgot.
First Impressions: AmaPrima & Embarkation in Nuremberg
We joined the 132-passenger AmaPrima in Nuremberg and were immediately impressed by the ship’s elegance, with plush interiors and a comfortable panoramic lounge perfect for watching the world float by. With 50 crew onboard, the service felt personal, attentive, and warmly professional from the very start.
After a quick unpack and a nap (travel day rules apply), we kicked off our week with AmaWaterways’ signature Chef’s Table experience—a seven-course tasting menu at the restaurant located at the very aft of the ship, paired with local wines. Delicious, yes. Sensible after an early start and a long day of travel? Probably not. But worth it.
Day-to-Day Aboard: Comfort, Culture & Constant Cake
Life on AmaPrima follows a relaxed, refined rhythm. Mornings start with a bountiful breakfast, followed by a choice of excursions - typically a walking tour, hike, or bike ride. Lunchtimes bring casual fare in the lounge or full dining in the restaurant. Afternoons are for scenic cruising, more excursions or the daily port talk.
There’s a quiet comfort in the routine: sip-and-sail cocktails at 6pm, followed by dinner with a mix of local and international flavours, then perhaps live music, a local folklore show, a wine and chocolate tasting or simply a nightcap and a chat with new friends.
Bamberg: Baroque Beauty & Breakfast Beer
Our first stop after leaving Nuremberg was Bamberg, Bavaria’s answer to Venice. A UNESCO World Heritage Site with preserved medieval charm, Bamberg boasts cobbled alleys, a cathedral housing papal tombs, and a stunning half-timbered town hall proudly straddling the river.
But the highlight? Rauchbier - smoked beer with centuries of brewing tradition. We sampled it at 11am, as you do, and found it surprisingly delicious. Smoky, malty, and weirdly breakfast-appropriate.
Wurzburg: Baroque Overload & Bridge Wine
The following day in Wurzburg, we visited the über-ornate Wurzburg Residence, an architectural jaw-dropper with its grand staircase, intricate ceiling frescoes the size of football fields and magnificent manicured gardens. Leaving our tour at the Palace, we walked through the centre of the town, across the historic Alte Mainbrücke, where locals sip wine on the bridge, and up to the Marienberg Fortress for panoramic views and medieval vibes, before a gentle riverfront walk back to the ship and afternoon tea.
Wertheim: Pretzels, Postcards & Castle Views
Though we had a very early morning excursion at the next destination, Wertheim charmed us instantly. After a hands-on pretzel-making session with a local baker, we wandered the town’s crooked streets and climbed to the castle ruins for views over the river confluence. Narrow, half-timbered houses jostled for attention with plenty of locals out and about enjoying the sunny weekend weather in the cafés around the market square. While we were soaking up Wertheim, the ship had continued on its way along the river so when it was time to leave we had a short coach ride to reunited for an afternoon soaking up the sunlight from a cosy sofa in the panorama lounge.
Rüdesheim: Coffee, Castles & the Rhine Gorge
Easter Sunday and we were docked in beautiful Rüdesheim, where we had signed up for a vineyard hike. With only one other passenger joining us, our guide led us through the sloping hills above Rüdesheim, past budding vines to the remote Ehrenfels Castle. Back in town, we had just enough time for a wander, a quick visit to the famous Christmas shop, and a longing glance at the coffee bars (next time, Rüdesheimer coffee, we promise) before the ship set sail again.
That afternoon was the highlight of any Rhine river cruise and we had a front-row seat, as we sailed down the stunning Rhine Gorge, complete with hot cross buns and commentary as we passed legendary castles and the Lorelei Rock. That evening, we again ventured ashore for an atmospheric guided tour of Lahneck Castle, carefully restored and still used as a summer home.
Cochem: Castles in the Clouds
After a sunny afternoon sailing down the Rhine valley the next day brought grey skies and drizzle in Cochem, but that couldn’t dampen our spirits. We managed to hike up to Reichsburg Castle - a neo-Gothic marvel with a dash of Renaissance flair - and take in sweeping views before the heavens opened. A soggy stroll back to the ship called for dry socks, hot tea, and a quiet afternoon of Moselle River scenic sailing.
The Moselle River and legendary Terrassenmosel
Our final destination, Wasserbillig, was nearly 24 hours away and involved navigating the winding Moselle river whose tight loops unveil steep-sided valleys cloaked in vineyards clinging precariously to slate-rich slopes. This is the legendary Terrassenmosel, famed for its panoramic terracing and labour-intensive cultivation, some reaching gradients up to 65 %, among the steepest in Europe.
These vineyards aren’t just a visual spectacle, they’re at the heart of Moselle’s Riesling heritage, a tradition dating back to Roman times and echoed in the terraces here along the river. From trellised rows sweeping up from the water to high cliffs hosting tiny parcels of vines, these slopes embody both the artistry and athleticism of viticulture. Vineyards here demand manual labour, the slopes being too steep to use machinery but yielding wines with crisp minerality from the slate soils.
Trier: ‘The Rome of the north’
We arrived at Wasserbillig, the border town for our departure from Luxembourg with a day to explore this region before leaving the ship. Our tour took us to Trier, Germany’s oldest city, founded by the Romans more than 2,000 years ago. It wears its history proudly with landmarks like the imposing Porta Nigra gate, a sprawling Roman amphitheatre, Roman baths, Constantine’s Basilica, and Karl Marx’s birth house all within walking distance. Often dubbed the Rome of the North (of the Alps), this extraordinary collection of monuments reflect its imperial past as a former capital of the Western Roman Empire, with more Riesling and fewer tourists.
Final Thoughts: Europe’s Best-Kept River Secret?
This cruise was more than castles and cobblestones. It was perfectly paced, packed with detail and surprise, and filled with the warmth of a floating boutique hotel. AmaPrima and her crew struck a balance between polished hospitality and relaxed fun. And the rivers? Magical. If you're looking for a river cruise route that’s slightly off the radar but every bit as rewarding, the Rhine-Main-Moselle triangle is the answer.
And yes—German smoked beer for breakfast is absolutely a thing!
Thank you to AmaWaterways who hosted us on this cruise, covering the cost of our cruise fare, flights, transfers and all of the excursions which are included whilst on the ship. AmaWaterways had no editorial control over any of our content, either before, during our after our voyage.
If you enjoyed this blog why not take a look at our other AmaWaterways content, The Colours of Provence Rhone river blog or our AmaMagna lower Danube cruise
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