Emerald Radiance Douro river cruise
Our journey to Porto had not been without its stresses, with confusion surrounding testing and Portuguese entry requirements, but thankfully the team at Panache had come up trumps giving us sound advice and double checking that we would arrive with all our paperwork in place. Despite the pre-travel concerns the actual travel to Porto was relatively easy and apart from a couple of checks at check-in and an extra form to show at passport control it really was no different to travel pre-pandemic. Arriving at the airport we immediately saw the Emerald Cruises sign and our wonderful driver Max waiting to take us to the ship in his wonderfully swanky Mercedes car. During our drive to the ship Max regaled us with information about Porto, taking us on the scenic route along the river bank. Once at the ship we were greeted by the friendly Emerald staff who took us over the Scenic Azure (which we would be joining later in the week) into the magnificent reception area of the Radiance.
The reception area of the Radiance is like entering a shiny sparkly house of mirrors with reflective surfaces everywhere and a central staircase complete with a chandelier of three large circular shades made up of a plethora of tiny sparkly lights dropping down through the two main decks. The surrounding walls are covered in mirrors giving the illusion that the chandeliers are even more grand than they are. Natural light floods into the area through the large floor to ceiling windows either side of the staircase, with large sliding doors to the main entrance of the ship also giving access to the staircase up to the top deck. The reception desk itself is also mirrored and in order to save having to pester the reception staff there is a handy large screen beside the desk illuminating the daily programme and any other useful information (such as boarding times) that guests may need to know. However, the reception team are always happy to help and we were warmly welcomed and efficiently checked in and shown to our room.
Our room, 301, classified as a Panorama Balcony Suite, sported a beautiful drop down panoramic window which at the touch of a button opens the room up to the outside world. Surrounding the window the shiny wood wall frames it nicely creating a sunroom vibe to the area which houses a couple of folding type chairs and a small table to sit with a coffee and enjoy the passing scenery. The bed is large and sumptuous with crisp white bedding to match the glossy white furnishings. Storage is plentiful with a full length closet, a range of large drawers, a lift up vanity mirror and useful high level shelving to put all those little things you never know where to put. The bathroom is down one side of the bed with a sliding door to save space and though small, perfectly functional and once again fitted with plenty of useful little shelves.
Although our luggage followed us immediately into our room we decided to head into the Horizon lounge to get a late lunch. Despite it being 2.30pm and the main lunch service long finished, there was a lovely little light lunch buffet laid out which we helped ourselves to, taking it out onto the Terrace to enjoy with a cold glass of rosé wine and a beer. The terrace is a located at the front of the Horizon lounge, perfectly fusing the indoor and outdoor area at the front of the ship with the cafe style indoor seating beyond the bar opening out to the outdoor decking, which is furnished with four comfortable egg chairs and a few tables, all shaded by the top deck above. The Terrace was the first public area we found on the ship and it became our favourite place for almost any time of the day, a sheltered spot to relax in and enjoy the wonderful panoramic views from the front of the ship.
After lunch we went back to our room to unpack before heading back to the Horizon lounge in time for the safety briefing and orientation talk from Natalie, our cruise director. The Horizon lounge is the main indoor area and is the perfect place to relax in during the day, as well as hosting the daily pre-dinner talks and the evening entertainment. Just inside the entrance to the lounge is a large and very well stocked drinks station offering an array of teas, a swanky coffee machine, a cold water station and a jar of cookies always available. The lounge itself is bright and airy with the comfortable seating generally placed around the edge of the room to make the most of the views out of the large windows. Where the suites are an abundance of glossy white, the Horizon bar embraces the opposing black gloss with a large bar situated at the end of the Horizon lounge, well stocked and waiting to serve guests from the extensive drinks menu.
Emerald Cruises offer their guests wine, beer and soft drinks with lunch and dinner as well as 24 hour access to the self service drinks station. Other drinks are available to buy individually with soft drinks, mocktails and beers costing around 3-4Eu and cocktails for around 8Eu. However if, like us, you prefer not to have to worry about buying drinks when on vacation, Emerald do offer a range of drinks packages. Alongside specific beer, wine and champagne packages the cheapest package at 12.50Eu a day is the ‘Extended Package’ which makes the wine, beer and soft drinks available throughout the day. For a more extensive choice of drinks guests can purchase the ‘Premium’ package at 24.50Eu a day.
After the welcome talk and safety briefing we just had time for a pre-dinner drink out on the Terrace before heading down to the Reflections restaurant for dinner. Like the Horizon bar, the main restaurant has large floor to ceiling windows to ensure guests can enjoy the river views whilst eating their breakfast, lunch or dinner, all of which are served in the Reflections Dining room. All meals are open seating with most of the tables in the dining room seating four to six guests with only a few two person tables. Dining on a river cruise is always a social affair and a great place to get to know your fellow travellers. Breakfast and lunch on the Radiance are buffet style self service with a small menu of hot dishes available to order alongside the buffet. Dinner is waiter service with a menu perfectly matched with lovely local wines.
Having settled in to our home for the next four days, early the next morning we started our voyage with a full day of sailing down the river Douro towards our first stop, Pinhao. As we sailed away from the residential areas surrounding Porto we left behind the views of expensive looking hillside houses (most notable of all the one belonging to Cristiano Ronaldo) and families enjoying the riverside beaches, to the more rugged and remote scenery, with many of the steep terraced hillsides covered with vineyards and olive groves. How better to spend a lazy Sunday morning than sailing down this gorgeous river in beautiful sunshine, navigating under various low bridges and two locks.
Having never navigated through a lock before we were excited that we had three locks to go through on our way to Pinhoa, the first of which we witnessed from the dining room as we were eating our breakfast. We made sure we were out on the open deck for the next one later that morning and were fascinated by the entire process, especially admiring the amount of work for the crew as they have to drop so much of the top deck so that the ship can navigate under the top of the lock.
That afternoon the weather continued to get warmer by the hour so I, along with a few other brave passengers, decided to take the plunge in the pool on the top deck. The pool is the centre piece of the lovely top deck of the Radiance, being slightly raised and surrounded by lovely wooden decking it is the perfect depth for lounging in to cool off on a hot day, with three separate Jacuzzi areas to choose from. The rest of the top deck of the Radiance has three canopies to provide shade for the plentiful tables and chairs, as well as a few loungers and deckchairs for sunbathing.
We arrived in Pinhao late afternoon and were docked just a short walk from this vibrant little Portuguese town, which with it being a Sunday afternoon was buzzing with lots of families walking along the river and relaxing in the cafes and restaurants. We had just enough time for a wander around before heading back to the ship to get ready for the Captains welcome reception and gala dinner. After pre-dinner drinks and a welcome talk from the Captain we toasted the amazing crew and headed down to Reflections for a delicious six course dinner. But the evening was not over yet with a full programme of entertainment planned in the Horizon lounges, starting with a Name That Tune music quiz followed by a bit of raucous karaoke, kicked off by Miguel, the courageous barman, singing Delilah.
Since no ships can sail on the Douro at night we stayed in Pinhao overnight and had an early start for an excursion to a local port wine estate. Everyone boarded the two coaches which had been sent to collect us and we drove the half an hour to the Quinta do Tedo vineyard. I decided to do the hour long hike around the vineyards with the activities manager, while Rich went on a tour around the estate to see the threshing bins and learn about port production. Afterwards we met up for the port wine tasting hosted by the vineyard owner.
Back on board the ship we set sail after lunch heading inland towards the Spanish border. Sailing down the Douro is never boring with the scenery changing from the rolling green hills flanking the wider parts of the river near the river mouth to the steeper rocky outcrops causing tricky navigation on the narrower parts of the river. The sailing from Pinhoa to the Spanish border took about 7 hours, navigating two further locks and some narrow, windy river. We arrived just in time for the crew to set up an outdoor cinema on the top deck for us to enjoy an outdoor movie night showing of The Greatest Showman, complete with popcorn and drinks.
Our last full day on the Radiance and we were up early for the two hour drive to the Spanish city of Salamanca. I hadn’t realised the historical significance of this city but it houses one of the oldest universities in the world dating back to 1218. The city is known as the ‘Golden City’ as the sandstone buildings slowly oxidise over time and turn a lovely golden colour. Since most of the old city is pedestrianised and there is no heavy industry in the city there is little pollution and the stone walls have retained their natural golden colour. We started our guided excursion in the local market, sampling some of the local ham and cheese, both of which were abundant in the market. After a whistle stop tour of the market we headed to the main square, the Plaza Mayor, home to the Town Hall and the most magnificent stone buildings housing shops, offices, restaurants and official buildings. After a quick look around we headed down the Main Street towards the historical university buildings, the library and the two cathedrals. After some free time to get some lunch we met up with our fellow passengers for a short show from the Tuna Medicina Salamanca, a group of 8 medicine students from the university who, dressed in traditional 14th century clothing, sang a selection of Spanish, Cuban and Mexican songs accompanied by guitars, a mandarin and an accordion, with one of the talented group occasionally breaking out in traditional dance. A lovely way to end our day in Salamanca.
We arrived back at the ship at about 6pm and almost immediately set sail for Pocinho where we would be overnight. Our after dinner entertainment this evening was another quiz and although we had joined up with some fellow guests we still didn’t do very well, but we decided to make the most of our last night on board the Radiance and stayed to enjoy the music in the Horizon lounge with our fellow guest who we would be sad to say goodbye to the next day. Sad as we were to be leaving the beautiful Emerald Radiance we were excited to be joining the luxurious Scenic Azure for the next leg of the journey.
Thank you to our preferred travel partners Panache cruises and Emerald Cruises who invited us to join the Radiance for the first part of a 7 day Douro river cruise and paid our cruise fare and transfers.
If you enjoyed this blog why not take a look at our review of a Uniworld Bordeaux river cruise.
If you are interested in booking a cruise with these or any other luxury cruise lines then we would recommend contacting a connoisseur at our trusted cruise partners Panache cruises - please mention that you have been referred to them through Visit With Us.
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